KUALA LUMPUR – Sultan Street in Kuala Lumpur of old would have been a cacophony of odd smells, sounds and scenes. If you had travelled back in time to the late 1800s, you’d have seen hopeful new migrants clutching their paltry belongings walking up the street, after registering their arrival at the immigrant processing centre by the Klang River.
The new arrivals would have been received by members of their clan associations, most of which were located along the street – which is why it was once known as “Wui Guan Gaai” (會館街) which translates to “Association Street”.
Having disembarked at the jetty along the river after a 3-day journey by boat from Port Swettenham (now Port Klang), where ships would have unloaded them, they may have stopped at the bathhouse and latrines at the corner of the street to clean up before meeting their new employers and mates.
Though demolished later, the bathhouse and latrines (where a food court now operates at the entrance to Kuala Lumpur’s “Pasar Karat” or flea market) were a prominent feature in many towns before piped water supply was introduced.
In the background, music from the Chinese opera troupe and Bangsawan theatre troupe of Theatre Street (Jalan Panggung today) would have given the migrants the comfort of familiar sounds of home, coupled with the fear and excitement of new experiences.
The roads and back lanes under construction would likely have been littered with cow and horse dung as trishaw pullers sidestepped these to deliver passengers to their destinations.
Despite its prominence, Jalan Sultan as it is known today plays a supporting role in the more boisterous Petaling Street – Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown.
In its heyday, Sultan Street was the first point of entry along the main artery into the town – High Street, today known as Jalan Tun H.S. Lee, and also the first point of entry for Chinese migrants into the city from the river, which was closer to the street, before it was straightened and redirected. The river jetty was located near where the Pasar Seni LRT and MRT stations are located today.
Association Street was renamed Sultan Street sometime in the 1880s, by then Selangor’s Sultan Abdul Samad after the British administrators included plans for a new palace to be built on nearby Petaling Hill. However, the Sultan preferred to remain in his dwelling in Jugra, Kuala Langat so the palace was never constructed.
Sultan Street was also a busy point of embarkation and disembarkation for trains servicing outlying mining settlements like Ampang, Sungai Besi and Salak South, which were connected to town via a train line that terminated at the Sultan Street train station. This is no longer in service, but sections of this old line form the Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) alignment today.
Sultan Street: its significance
Established by early Chinese migrants, Sultan Street served the needs of the Chinese community, but at the same time embraced the diversity and character of multicultural Kuala Lumpur giving it its own unique version of oriental culture – evident in its tangible and intangible heritage – including the Federated Malay States (FMS) Eclectic style architecture of its shophouses, its informal trades and traditional businesses like tea merchants, noodle makers and tailors, and street vendors and food stalls among other features.
The spot where the Sultan’s palace was to be built became a place where schools, religious houses and community centres were built, in addition to sports and recreation, and art, culture and entertainment centres, some of which are still operating today – like the Chin Woo stadium and the Yan Keng Benevolent Dramatic Association.
Among the more socially and historically significant structures in the area are Stadium Merdeka where the declaration of independence was made by Malaysia’s first prime minister Tuanku Abdul Rahman, and Stadium Negara which hosted major sporting events.
Both have been registered as National Heritage structures. Merdeka 118 – the second tallest tower in the world emerge as a backdrop for Jalan Sultan in recent years.
Despite the significance of the street to Kuala Lumpur’s history, it is bound by many challenges – the same as most old cities in the world – this involves balancing the preservation of cultural heritage with progress and development.
New challenges
Participants at the recent Old Cities New Challenges 2025 unplugged course by Getty Conservation Institute and Think City Institute identified some of the challenges and opportunities in Jalan Sultan and produced proposed visions and solutions for the long term using the United Nations’ Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation’s (Unesco) Historic Urban Landscape (HUL) approach.
The HUL approach adopts mapping and identifying the cultural heritage and values of a place, identifying constraints, opportunities and vulnerabilities, and looking at development framework, policies and actions in addition to partnerships and management – to formulate effective policies, plans and practices for the development of urban centres with rich social, cultural and economic assets.
In the case of Jalan Sultan, some traditional establishments that sustained the socio-cultural and economic identity of Jalan Sultan have stood the test of time, but are nevertheless under threat due to several factors.
This is further catalysed by the lack of awareness and appreciation for the historical significance of the street, the lack of documentation, risk management, expertise and funds even if there is awareness, and the lack of empowerment and sense of belonging amongst youth in the community.
Proposed solutions & recommendations
One of the main attractions at Jalan Sultan today is undisputably its rich and diverse food culture that serves not just authentic Chinese dishes, but also food that has evolved to cater for the multi-ethnic society in the city and visiting tourists.
This is one of the unique selling points for Jalan Sultan, and was identified as the attribute with the highest potential to be developed via historical research, culinary labs, workshops and food trails – which can be used as a catalyst for the development of other attributes along the street in the future.
There is high growth potential in the street’s proximity to popular sites in the city through improved connectivity with nearby arts, culture and commercial centres via safe, shaded and connected paths, walkways and public spaces in the area, in addition to improved signages, interpretation panels and maps that reflect the character and authenticity of Jalan Sultan.
Recommendations zeroed in on community participation, working groups and engagement as the way forward, together with encouraging traditional trades and businesses with supporting policies, incentives and participation from connected stakeholders.
This is backed by outreach, education and workshops to boost knowledge, awareness and appreciation for the history and heritage of the area which will easy the next phase of recommendations that include implementing façade and design rules, and restoration guidelines and regulations, in addition to archaeological labs.
These research and findings were formulated and presented during the course and the recommendations and proposed solutions were presented to course facilitators and also the team at PNB Merdeka Ventures Sdn Bhd – which manages neighbouring Merdeka 118 – an important stakeholder in the area.
Blending growth and legacies
As Jalan Sultan enters its next chapter it battles to retain its role and identity as a place that continues to welcome and serve the multi-ethnic community of Kuala Lumpur, without losing its spirit and character – that Chinatown experience that is authentically Malaysian.
The vision is that the stories, legacies and heritage of Kuala Lumpur’s predecessors who built Sultan Street will inspire future generations of this vibrant and progressive city to honour its past, as it charges into the future. – March 16, 2025