Tastes of Malaysia: bringing home to Phnom Penh

Cafe Malaya and Mamak’s Corner in Cambodian capital loved by locals and Malaysian tourists alike

3:00 PM MYT

 

PHNOM PENH – Malaysians travelling to Cambodia need not worry about homesickness, as the taste of local cuisine may be just around the corner.

The love for Malaysian food is clearly reciprocal in Cambodia’s capital. Restaurateurs met by Scoop said their dishes are loved by locals here as much as by Malaysian travellers.

One such economy rice-themed restaurant, Cafe Malaya, has been providing Cambodians with a taste of Malaysia for as low as US$5 (RM23.45) to US$7 a plate, with comfort foods such as beef rendang, curries and butter chicken on its menu.

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Cafe Malaya serves economy rice for as low as US$5 to US$7 a plate. – Cafe Malaya Facebook pic, June 9, 2024

Nur Eleena Suhaimi, who manages the restaurant with her parents, said they moved from Malaysia in 2005 to tap into a new market and start the business.

“Eighteen years ago, there wasn’t as much Malaysian food here. You could say that we are one of the first (restaurants),” she said.

“We select which foods (we would like to sell) every day, but we also have consistent menus for each day. The customer will not be ‘pening’ (conflicted) as they know which dishes will be sold on what day. They don’t have to come at their own risk.”

Eleena, who is half Cambodian, also shared that she had plans to follow in her parents’ footsteps and be their successor.

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Nur Eleena Suhaimi posing for a photo at Cafe Malaya, which she manages with her parents. – Adam Ayzzat/Scoop pic, June 9, 2024

“My parents want me to take over the business (someday), and I would be happy to (do so). It is quite a big step, but I grew up looking after the shop. So, I would be comfortable (taking on the role).”

The 28-year-old said managing the restaurant was not always glamorous, as her parents told her that business in its first year was slow and it took a few more years to gain recognition.

Nonetheless, she said businesses experiencing constant ups and downs were normal, such as long lockdown periods during the Covid-19 pandemic, but remained thankful that her family’s restaurant was able to survive every hardship.

Eleena also shared that life in Cambodia is as colourful as it is peaceful, while also providing just as many opportunities for success – as long as one knows how to look for them.

Around the corner from Cafe Malaya lies a mamak restaurant, literally named Mamak’s Corner, dubbed the first-ever eatery to serve Malaysian food in Phnom Penh.

Its owner, Muhammad Ismail Ganesan Abdullah, reminisced about how his small stall in 1993 grew into an established restaurant now, owing his thanks to the love given by locals here.

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A familiar spread of mamak dishes at Mamak’s Corner. – Pic courtesy of Mamak’s Corner, June 9, 2024

“I had a restaurant in Malaysia too, but I decided to open one (in Phnom Penh) too after migrating here,” he said.

“At that time, it was difficult to get food. So, it took about three months to be well-received by the locals here. I once returned to Malaysia for a while, but since the locals have taken a liking to my food, they told me to come back here.”

Ismail said many renowned Malaysian leaders and notable individuals had eaten at his restaurant, despite not being able to name them. 

Checks on the restaurant’s Facebook page show that some of its recent customers include then-ambassador of Malaysia to Cambodia, Datuk Eldeen Husaini Mohd Hashim, and Dewan Rakyat Speaker Tan Sri Johari Abdul.

The dishes served at the restaurant encompass well-known familiar flavours, including nasi biryani, nasi lemak and even roti canai.

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Malaysia’s former ambassador to Cambodia, Datuk Eldeen Husaini Mohd Hashim (fourth right) and Dewan Rakyat Speaker Tan Sri Johari Abdul (eighth right) are among the many notable names who have eaten at Mamak’s Corner. – Pic courtesy of Mamak’s Corner, June 9, 2024

However, Ismail admitted he was a versatile chef, not limiting his prowess to mamak food alone. He also caters to any special orders made by customers, be they Thai flavours or Chinese delicacies.

“People usually eat nasi kandar here. Cambodians really like the food, and have even taken a liking to asam pedas and fish curry.

“Tourists from various backgrounds have visited my restaurant. I had customers from Japan who liked the curry so much, they implored me to open a store there too.”

Finding halal ingredients for his restaurant also proves not to be a problem, as Ismail said many Muslims live in the capital city. – June 9, 2024

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