MERBOK – There is much hype and interest in archaeological sites and findings in Lembah Bujang, but to the untrained eye, in the absence of guided tours and effective interpretation, all one sees are mounds of scattered bricks, broken clay, and at most the bases of ancient Buddhist stupas or Hindu temples, and some artefacts (in the galleries around the area). Without proper context, the significance of the sites is lost.
Archaeological excavations in the valley, which was a part of the larger Ancient Kedah civilization, began in the late 1800s – first by British officers for the purpose of antique collections, and then later in the 1900s by British ethnographers and administrators before local archaeologists took over in the 1960s and 70s.
Artefacts from early excavations were sent to the Raffles Library and Museum in Singapore (now the National Museum of Singapore) which was then part of Malaya (Malaysia). These artefacts are still housed there to date.
Sharing his concerns about the state and management of sites in Lembah Bujang, former Universiti Sains Malaysia (USM) Centre for Global Archaeological Research (CGAR) director Datuk Mokhtar Saidin said: “The whole potential and purpose of these sites is to make sure that it is a place for academic advancement and learning. But how do we do this if no effort is being made to develop the site for archaeotourism?”
Mokhtar, an archaeologist and geologist, mapped out the entire valley in 2008. A total of 97 archaeological sites, at the foot of Gunung Jerai, were discovered.
Of this, 54 sites have been excavated and the rest are pending archaeological digs.
Met at a recent archaeotourism workshop for travel agents and the media, organised by Tourism Malaysia Northern Region, he said when there is no activity at archaeological sites like the Sg Batu Archaeological Complex – the 4 sq km site of an ancient port city and large-scale iron smelting industry (located within Lembah Bujang) – there is a risk of it decaying.
It will take a lot of funds and time to excavate these sites, he said, adding that his research included the discovery of ancient boats buried in the mud of what used to be a paleo river, until the shoreline shifted further west due to tectonic movements.
This excavation alone requires a hefty RM30 million to be undertaken, in the face of uncertainty that there are actual boats buried beneath the mud.
In an effort to keep interest and momentum in Sg Batu going, Mokhtar, who retired in 2021, and a group of his former colleagues, with support from the state government and a RM40,000 SDG (Sustainable Development Goals) grant from the Malaysian Parliament, have set up a tent outside the Sg Batu Archaeological Complex from which a makeshift gallery is being operated, in addition to demonstrations on how iron smelting and brick making was done at Sg Batu.
The rickety tents are fitted with fans and buntings – a low-cost effort to provide site interpretation that will give visitors an idea of what they are looking at.
Mokhtar and his team have packaged visits to sites in the valley as part of the Jerai Geopark Trail. They are working closely with the Ancient Kedah Association set up by residents of the surrounding village, with whom he had been working closely before his retirement.
Tours at the site, including interactive augmented reality displays, are managed and conducted by former USM masters and PhD students. This has come under scrutiny, especially since there is a clash of historical narratives between him and the current team at CGAR.
Mokhtar places the existence of Sg Batu at around 788 BC based on his research, while his former student Nasha Rodziadi Khaw – an archaeologist and senior lecturer at CGAR – upholds the 2nd to 10th century AD theory based on Bayesian Chronological Modelling calculations.
Asked why he was still pressing for better site management even though he has retired from service at the university, Mokhtar said: “I feel that not enough is being done now. I feel I have a responsibility to the country, and to bring archaeotourism and Sg Batu to the right place.”
Currently, all archaeological sites in Lembah Bujang, including the Sg Batu Archaeological Complex, fall under the purview of the National Heritage Department. The area where Mokhtar and his team have set up the gallery (outside the Sg Batu complex) falls under the local authority (Kuala Muda district).
Current USM CGAR director Stephen Chia said the centre conducts excavations and research at the remaining 43 sites, and assists and advises government agencies in preservation, conservation and promotion of sites when needed, or when funding for specific projects are obtained.
Site interpretation are done by archaeologists, while site tours are usually conducted by private travel operators or individuals, he said.
Answers to questions on the management and plans for archaeological sites in Lembah Bujang, including Sg Batu, sent to the National Heritage Department, are still pending. – October 31, 2023
Clash of narratives, part 1: is Lembah Bujang not as old as we think it is?
Clash of narratives, part 2: inclination for 2nd to 10th century AD Ancient Kedah