KUALA LUMPUR – Brown signboards marking sites of cultural interest and recreation along the North South (PLUS) Highway and federal roads often inject some excitement at the possibility of making new discoveries.
But more often than not, this possibility only remains as an intention that is overtaken by other distractions. Thus, it was finally a tick in the box when an unplanned opportunity to visit Gua Tempurung, located just off the PLUS Highway, came up in the form of a site visit.
The trip was part of Tourism Malaysia Northern Region’s exploration of several archaeological tourism or archaeotourism sites in northern Malaysia with content creators and travel agents.
This cave, formed over 300 million years ago, has two openings at the entrance – one is the entry and exit to “dry caves” while the other is the outflow of the “wet cave” which is the exit path of a river running through the cave.
You would likely clock around 1,500 steps on your pedometer to get through level 1 and 2 which is approximately 500m through the dry cave and back. This includes inclines, descents, and straight pathways and platforms through the caves which were once a tin and gold mining haven for the locals.
Local guides from nearby villages have named sections of the cave according to on site features and visitors’ antics.
The entrance platform is aptly named “Aiyahhhhh…!” – the most common response they would hear when visitors catch sight of the steep inclining stairs they would have to ascend to start their cave adventure.
A small respite to anxious visitors would be the soothing sound of the stream running below the raised platform, amplified by the cave acoustics. The cooler climate in the cave hits you as you step in, and the rushing water sparkles and glints as it runs above the white marble overlaying the river bed.
Once inside, the walk and inclining steps do not seem too bad as it curves through gorgeous stalactite, stalagmite and rock formations lit by the glow of spotlights placed along the pathway.
The first stop on Platform 1, dubbed as “Mr Bat” – owing to its proximity to the seasonal bat colony – used to be known as the “Mona Lisa Platform” likely due to the abstract artwork from bat droppings above the cave walls. Bats usually nest in this area between April to June.
The second platform – “Echo-Echo” used to be known as “Platform Osama” because of what seems like the shadow of the (now deceased) terrorist climbing a mountain peak when you shine a torch through the stalagmites. This name change, according to our guide Encik Tajor, was to address “sensitivities”.
Platform “Echo-Echo” is one of the best spots to view the cave formations, and the play of shadows on the cave walls. It is also one of the best spots in the cave to call out to or maybe annoy other visitors by hearing your voice echo through the cave cavity – hence the name.
The plus point of having a guide is the insight into the local folklores, stories and incidents that took place in Gua Tempurung, and the knowledge of specific spots like the area where communist guerrillas likely hiding from security forces had carved out scenes they were familiar with, including cars of officials they were probably targeting to attack, and lyrics of the Chinese national anthem.
Without context, we would have walked past the cave scribblings without appreciating the history behind it or viewed it as a part of more recent scribblings – by vandals.
Platform 3 referred to as “Golden Flowstone” is a treat for those who love shiny things. As its name suggests, the golden-brown limestone sparkles and glitters in the faint light of our torches and spotlights – an effect from the calcite and minerals forming the rock.
It has a smooth cascading effect and can be seen from various sections of the cave – lending a beautiful contrast to the dull grey and white stalactite and stalagmites.
My favourite platform, Platform 4 known as the “wind tunnel” does not have much in terms of views, but has a cool, constant and pleasant gust of wind flowing through the elevated pathway. During wet monsoon months, a small stream forms and flows under this path.
This path brings you to the end of the dry cave adventure (level 1 & 2) which culminates on Platform 5 – “Top of the World”.
The remaining route to levels 3 and 4 takes you into the wet cave adventure area, which goes on for a further 1km.
I did not explore this part of the cave but managed to get feedback from communications student Sara Phillips who went through the whole 2km trail as part of a team building exercise. This included a descent from Platform 5 to the bottom half of the cave.
The wet cave route included slipping through small crevices, crawling through the river, jumping over gaps in the path, and sliding on their backs to the level below.
Sara said: “We finally saw the light at the end of the tunnel after what seemed like hours. The wet cave levels are likely not suitable for people who are claustrophobic, but definitely one for those up for a challenge.”
Ample shower and bathroom facilities are available for visitors at the entrance to the cave complex, a respite for the hikers and river adventurers for sure.
For more information on guided tours and packages visit Gua Tempurung’s official Facebook page. – September 9, 2023